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Full Steam Ahead
5.11a,
Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m),
Avg: 4 from 9
votes
FA: Topher Dabrowski & Stephen Shostek July 2020
Washington
> South-W & Tacoma
> Columbia Gorge
> Beacon Rock
> Northwest Face
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
One of the least climbed best routes on the NW face and a great "11" to break into the grade, this is another "to do" line with easier climbing on gear in the 5.9/10- grade in between bolted crux sections. Plenty of good quality placements can be found on this line, and after you climb it, you'll wonder why you haven't done it before.
Start up a series of cracks and edges towards a good horizontal rail. Move right and up along the rail to a mantle. Continue up the crack and then step right until under a shallow roof. After pulling the roof, move left past a bolt and a committing step through to a large ledge.
From the left side of the ledge, climb the right-trending crack on good holds to a second shallow roof. Past the roof, a series of bolts protects the final challenging exit moves to the top anchor.
Descent
Rap the route
Location
This route is located just left of the large boulder in the ditch. It is located about 20' right of The Steam Boat Captain's Dream.
Protection
0.2 - 4 Camalots
Offset nuts
Small to medium nuts
10-12 draws
[Hide Photo] NW Face Topo - Topher D.
[Hide Photo] Full Steam Ahead - rope hanging on the route. Siren's Call starts to the left but is much cleaner now, this is an older photo.
[Hide Photo] Some can reach it before pulling this crux - Marcus clipping the bolt on Full Steam Ahead
[Hide Photo] A joyous Austen on the onsight of Full Steam Ahead.
Portland, OR
A great route to push your grade on. Sep 7, 2021
Portland, OR
WA, NV