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Full Steam Ahead

5.11a, Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 4 from 9 votes
FA: Topher Dabrowski & Stephen Shostek July 2020
Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Beacon Rock > Northwest Face
Warning Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open) DetailsDrop down

Description

One of the least climbed best routes on the NW face and a great "11" to break into the grade, this is another "to do" line with easier climbing on gear in the 5.9/10- grade in between bolted crux sections. Plenty of good quality placements can be found on this line, and after you climb it, you'll wonder why you haven't done it before.

Start up a series of cracks and edges towards a good horizontal rail. Move right and up along the rail to a mantle. Continue up the crack and then step right until under a shallow roof. After pulling the roof, move left past a bolt and a committing step through to a large ledge.

From the left side of the ledge, climb the right-trending crack on good holds to a second shallow roof. Past the roof, a series of bolts protects the final challenging exit moves to the top anchor.

Descent
Rap the route 

Location

This route is located just left of the large boulder in the ditch. It is located about 20' right of The Steam Boat Captain's Dream.

Protection

0.2 - 4 Camalots
Offset nuts
Small to medium nuts
10-12 draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

NW Face Topo - Topher D.
[Hide Photo] NW Face Topo - Topher D.
Full Steam Ahead - rope hanging on the route. Siren's Call starts to the left but is much cleaner now, this is an older photo.
[Hide Photo] Full Steam Ahead - rope hanging on the route. Siren's Call starts to the left but is much cleaner now, this is an older photo.
Some can reach it before pulling this crux - Marcus clipping the bolt on Full Steam Ahead
[Hide Photo] Some can reach it before pulling this crux - Marcus clipping the bolt on Full Steam Ahead
A joyous Austen on the onsight of Full Steam Ahead.
[Hide Photo] A joyous Austen on the onsight of Full Steam Ahead.
Greg on the onsight.
[Hide Photo] Greg on the onsight.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This is another "to do" line on this face with easier climbing on gear in the 5.9/10- grade in between bolted crux sections.
A great route to push your grade on. Sep 7, 2021
Stephen Shostek
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Bolted cruxes, great gear, fun climbing. Jul 18, 2022
Jarred Jackman
WA, NV
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] This climb has very good, thoughtful movement. People need to climb this more so it stays cleaner. I'd say this is one of the most interesting pitches I've climbed at Beacon. Don't be dissuaded by the grade, I'd say it's less demanding than the 10c pitches on the South side of Beacon. Certainly less physically demanding than the lieback pitch on Steamboat Captain. Oct 8, 2023