PRINT: Rock Climb Limbic System, Red River Gorge

Limbic System

5.11d, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 29 votes
FA: Dustin Stephens, Byron Hempel ~2014
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > (BRRP) Bald Roc… > Chocolate Factory

Access Issue: Private Property Details

In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned. The Ventura's have formed the Motherlode LLC to cover the liability of the land.

Description

Long, cryptic face climb, reachy

Location

About 50 ft right of Theobroma, starts on some cheater stones to reach the first crimp

Protection

glue ins, 9 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The start to Limbic System

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Crum
Oakdale

I think this line is a little slept on. Very interesting climbing that can feel slightly desperate. Having zero chalk on all the holds certainly adds to the experience. Rap rings at the top Nov 7, 2023

Jarek Voyles
Beattyville, KY

5.12a

Gotta be honest, this thing felt like a total sandbag with the original grade of 11c, maybe a bit harder than Crimp My Ride to the left. It’s on you the entire way, physically and mentally. Still, an absolute blast of a climb with some truly unique and delicate movement. This cannot be missed if this style is your jam. Every single bolt offers something different and will have you pulling off some truly improbable and committing moves at the mere grade of 11c no less. Hope you’ve been training those fingers! By the end, your brain might be as sore as your digits.

The opening move right off the ground is pretty heinous. Be prepared to huck if those tips can’t quite crank hard enough. You could cheat the start out right, but do you really want that to live in your mind? Mar 19, 2024