Type: Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Craig McGee and Lindsay Andersen, September 2020
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Shared By: Tom Jones on Oct 1, 2020
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose

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Description Suggest change

From Crag's Topo posted to Bow Valley Climbing Community with Permission!

Livin in Paradise, 5.12a, 120m (5 pitches) Stanley Headwall, Yoho National Park

 

11 – 14 draws (depending on use of optional gear) (17+ draws if combining pitch 1 and 2)

Optional #.75,# 1, #2 and #3 (BD) for pitches 2 and 5 (4 cams max)

Pitch #1, 5.9 20m, 6 bolts. 

At the right side of the ledge start up the small left-facing flake/pillar, then follow bolts and prickly climb up and left to a sloping belay stance below the overhanging 2nd pitch. Generally, climb left of the bolts as they are placed on the right to facilitate less rope drag if you combine pitches 1 and 2. If combining pitches 1 and 2, it is advisable to back-clean the first draw and use long slings on the second and last bolt on the 1st pitch

 

Pitch #2, 5.11c, 35m, 11 bolts (plus a couple of optional cams #.75-#3) 

An awesome pitch. Step out right from the belay and climb up through excellent rock and ever steepening terrain. Once past the overhanging terrain, the route follows a crack for 8m. One bolt protects the wide section of this crack, but some people may prefer to use a couple of cams (#.75 - #3) in this crack section. No single crux, but lots of sustained climbing. Belay at the first set of bolts. There is one chained draw to help facilitate getting back to the first belay if you decide to rappel from here.

 

After you have belayed the second person up, bump the belay up and across to the far left side of the ledge. Do not use the belay with the black chain below the ledge (this is for rappelling). Instead, use the bolts that are up on the ledge.

 

Pitch #3 5.5, 17m 4 bolts

Tread lightly. The climbing isn't hard, but the rock isn't great either! Belay on the obvious ledge at 17m. Do not connect this pitch with pitch #4, the rope drag would be bad.

 

Pitch #4 5.10a, 25m, 7 bolts. 

Climb steep and impeccable rock for the first 4 bolts, then make an exposed, but moderate traverse out right, then up to a belay below the crux pitch.

 

Pitch #5, 5.12a 28m, 9 bolts (plus optional gear .75-#3) 

Climb through a few approach bolts and up to the base of the steep seam/crack (steeper than it looks!!). Powerful pulls on perfect holds surrounding the crack lead to a problematic jam in a flaring finger pod. After the crux, a body length of overhanging hands leads to easier, but exposed terrain. This pitch can be climbed just using the bolts; however, some people may prefer to use a few cams (.75 - #3) in between a couple of the bolts. The crux bolt has a fixed chain draw to enable the pitch to be easily climbed at 5.11 A0 and help facilitate getting back to the belay when rappelling.

Descent 

It would be possible to belay a short 4th class section and then walk off, but all pitches are set up to rappel too.

 Rap #1

  • Do a 70m, (two ropes) rappel directly to the midway ledge (fulling overhanging) or
  • Do a 28m rappel to the top of pitch #4 (you will need to clip a few draws, and use the chain draw to get back to the pitch #4 belay. It is a 28m rap, and it's super steep, so tie knots at the end of the rope and be careful!

Rap #2

  • 25m. Use the chain draw on the traverse to help get back to the top of pitch #3

Rap #3

  • 17m. Rap down to the black chain that is below the midway ledge. Watch for loose rock when pulling your rope. 

Rap #4

  • 55m, use two ropes to rappel from the black chain (just below the midway ledge) to the route's start. 
  • If you are savvy and have a 70m rope, you could get back to the belay at the top of pitch #2 and then back-clip and use the chain draw to rap to the top of pitch one. This option is not easy. 

 Rap #5

  • 20m. Scramble back up the approach ledge and make one last rap to the ground. 

 

Location Suggest change

Approach

Park at the Stanley Glacier trailhead in Yoho National Park. Take the popular hiking trail to the enormous boulder below the main waterfall (Nemesis). Head up left towards a large orange circular piece of overhanging rock at the left side of the main cliff (1-1.5hrs). Locate a small ledge system that cuts in from the left side of the cliff. It is recommended to belay across the initial part of the ledge system (single belay bolt and several bolts on the traverse) as a fall would be critical. There is a handline that starts after the exposed section which leads down to the start of the route.

 

Protection Suggest change

Small rack and bolts, see description

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