(It doesn't matter they'll change it anyways)
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Christopher LaGow and Robbie Mackley |
Page Views: | 1,121 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Christopher David on Sep 30, 2020 · Updates |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Another all-gear route on this wall so let’s keep it that way
Pitch One: This starts after a large boulder less then mid-way on the wall look at photos) with the twin cracks above and you're aiming for the right.
Start up the wall, following the protection up and left pass bulge. move right and undercling the flake, work your way up the slab. Pods will appear protect them and make your way to the vertical crack. The climbing gets pretty run out here. Working the crack is the crux of the route and it’s well protected. After the crux move left into the highlight of this pitch the traverse left to the belay ledge. Gear for anchor 2 #2. The pitch is 5.11 and approximately 35 meters.
Pitch Two: From the belay ledge move right into the wide crack make a few hard and thoughtful moves to get established into the wide crack. Off width your way up and out of the crack into a dike band of chicken heads using ties off for protection.
To top out the dome you can go right or left. I recommend right, heading to the fourth pitch of First Amendment rights to it keep the grade a bit more sustained and it’s a pitch not to be missed! Head right on the dike passing a rap anchor and find a large right facing flake make a belay here with 4's
If you want to back off the grade follow the dike left to the low angel crack and make belay if you move up a bit into the crack it will help with rope drag. Gear for belay (depends on which part of the crack you use) .4-1 45 meters 5.11-
Third Pitch: (fourth pitch of first amendment) Pitch 4 (5.10PG): Climb the slab to the horizontal crack, as it turns vertical, undercling and jam to the stembox. As the stembox opens up you will see a dirty crack, this is an easier variation, the original (and IMO better) route climbs up through and protects in the pods which lead you to a shelf with a boulder that you can sling for a belay.
Or option two-- go left on dike to Lost Wages
Pitch Three: Either of the two low angle cracks of Lost Wages (the right gets wide and could take maybe even a 6 but it’s so chill/low angle I used fours and felt fine) until you about run out of rope at the base of the summit pitch look for a large boulder like formation. Gear for belay thread through chicken head/tie off and #.3(2 double length super helpful here) 65 meters 5.7.
Fourth Pitch: Head up the low angle on pockets and edges. Look for a fours crack on the left to make a belay. Gear for belay 4's 15 meters 5.6
Review the walk-off information on the main page.
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