Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS: 46.02855, -74.19572
FA: Inconnue, début des années 70
Page Views: 518 total · 8/month
Shared By: Gab Charette on Sep 24, 2020
Admins: Richer Lariviere, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The rightmost route on Mont Condor's right hand face. Aim for the big open book dihedral halfway up the cliff. Start in a small crack (5.7) to a first ledge, than climb a second small crack to the second ledge/slab that will lead you into the corner.

The guidebook has the rest as as an old-school 5.4 (second half of La Proposition) but my 6 y/o can climb Chico (5.4) and definitely can't climb this corner (5.6?). Slightly easier (5.5?) on top rope since you don't have to stay in the corner for protection.

La voie la plus à droite au Mont Condor. Viser le dièdre ouvert en milieu de parois. Utiliser deux petites craques successives bien protégées pour accéder aux deux vires (crux au départ en 5.7).

Une voie intéressante pour le niveau.

Ancrages difficile d'accès par le haut pour installer un top rope (requiert un rappel et une connaissance de la parois). Une directionnelle est aussi recommandée dans la deuxième craque depuis la base pour un top rope.

Access from the top to install a top rope is tricky (requires a rappel and knowledge of the cliff from above). A directional is also recommended for top rope.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. Relais sur scellements.

Photos

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