PRINT: Rock Climb Waterbender, Willamette Valley

Waterbender

5.11d, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: JDM 05/2020
Oregon > Willamette Valley > Lookout Point > Madrone Coves

Access Issue: Private Logging Land: no access in high fire danger, don't drive past the gate. Details

Private land info on the sign at the gate (please see photo). Follow all rules on the sign to ensure future access.
When a red fire hazard sign is posted, access is temporarily not allowed.

If you encounter logging personnel be courteous and follow any instructions. Access is a privilege.

Don't block the gate. Park well away from the corner/intersection on west boundary road, or in the two spots just right of the gate. (please see photo). Stay out during active logging operations, gate is often left open during these times.

Description

Start up the streak as for Airbender, passing two cruxy sections, both calling on a bit of pocket strength. Escape left just before the boulder crux of Airbender: climb into the chimney finishing on the back side of the prow for 3 bolts of steep but easy 3-d climbing. One 5.10-ish move heading right and leaving the security of the chimney feels quite committing but is reasonably protected.

Location

Climb airbender and then bail into the chimney.

Protection

11 glueins

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The line

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Micah Elconin
Eugene, OR

The 3d stuff up top is really really cool, but definitely requires a cool head. Not sure I'd want to fall up there. Feb 4, 2021

Jacob Mathison

My highest grade lead yet, I hangdogged like no one’s business lol. Reachy pockets on the way to the chimney were pumpy and so much fun, and the 3D climbing up top was sick. This climb goes overall, but has a couple hardware issues. Fourth or fifth gluein (can’t remember which) has some cracking in the glue and looks quite sketchy, it felt solid and actually held a bit of a whip but still seems very sketchy, especially since above that bolt felt like crux for me. Anchor is missing the left rap ring, and I left my locker up there for the rap down (free locker if you wanna replace the rap ring!). May 27, 2023

JD Merritt
Eugene, OR

5.11d

Hi Jacob, thanks for your attentiveness to the hardware. Next time I'm up there I'll have a look at it.
Edit: I checked out the bolts on this route and the glue is solid and showing no signs of wear. For those who are interested, there is a void in the glue below the eye of the 5th where it's countersunk, and nowhere near the shaft of the bolt. This doesn't affect the strength or longevity. May 27, 2023