Type: Trad, Alpine, 540 ft (164 m), 6 pitches
FA: M Adolph, T. Learn '04
Page Views: 478 total · 11/month
Shared By: Paul Lord on Sep 21, 2020
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

My understanding is that this route has been around for a while but that in 2019 it received some upgrades from the folks at Girth Hitch Guiding. There's still a fair amount of loose rock but otherwise the bolted anchors and moderate grade make this for an excellent outing. 

P1: Follow bolts up then traverse right after a short crack to a bolted station. It is possible to link with P2 making a 60m pitch but there would be significant rope drag.

P2: Head straight up on gear plus one bolt, then trend left following easy climbing to another bolted station.

P3: Climb straight up to gain the ledge where there is an optional bolt then follow the ledge right to reach a bolted station.

P4: Follow the easy corner straight up to within 4 or five meters of the top of the corner and the rightwards leading ledge. Traverse right over solid but poorly protected terrain to a bolt hidden in a depression, then continue right and upwards to the bolted anchor. 

P5: Traverse right along the ledge for 12m past one anchor (for a different climb) to reach the bolted anchor below the corner.

P6: Follow the corner straight up past the rappel anchor at 30m to reach the bolted anchor at 55m. It would be possible to split this pitch in two if desired. Loose rock is especially hazardous as the belayer is directly below the climber. It is possible to scramble to one of several false summits after this for some excellent views.

Descent: Rappels can be done with a 60m rope but nothing shorter. Stations are bolted with rings.

Rappel the final pitch using the intermediate rappel station, then continue straight down to the obvious rappel stations. It may be tempting to skip the last station if you have a 70m rope but after measuring we found that we would have been a few meters short.

Location Suggest change

Look for bolts right in the corner of the where the buttress meets the ridge, the other climbs start further to the right where you will be rappelling.

Protection Suggest change

All bolted anchors with some bolts. A few cams and nuts.

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