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Hold My Beer

5.9+, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 14 votes
FA: Clay Watson, Tyler Phillips, Bryce Perkins, Drew Bedford
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Moss Ledges

Description

Awesome, juggy climbing with occasional slopers. The big block on the right draws your eye but is a dead end. Get creative, look the other way and find the hidden jugs that keep the crux bunchy but mellow. Slightly steeper version of Five Second Rule that eases up after the first bulge and comes back again near the end.

 

Location

25 feet left of the Raw and The Cooked. Several options for starting this. The one with the bolt seems around 9+. 10' left of the bolt there is a zig-zag looking crack that starts around .8 for a few feet, then pulls a really fun bulge at about .9 and with all gear. 

Protection

Awesome gear with bolts where you need them. You could place a piece every 4 feet for much, but not all of this route, so use them when you get them.

2 bolts supplemented with doubles from blue TCU to .75 camalot with a single #3 camalot.

(Don't remember placing a #1 or 2 so correct me if I'm wrong.) You could use three .5 camalots but can get away with only 1.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cleaning lap.
[Hide Photo] Cleaning lap.
Crag reference topo.
[Hide Photo] Crag reference topo.
We had it all cleaned up and ready to go. As we were packing up, we pulled the rope and forgot to untie the knot. So the FA happened in the dark.
[Hide Photo] We had it all cleaned up and ready to go. As we were packing up, we pulled the rope and forgot to untie the knot. So the FA happened in the dark.
Blue line on the left.
[Hide Photo] Blue line on the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I found the moves by bolt 1 to be 10-. Insecure and steep for a bit on some slopers. The rest of the gear climbing was cruiser and IMO easier than FSR. I do understand the sentiment of 9+ as it is just a short sequence but I thought it was definitely 5.10 climbing. Brushing the remaining lichen off the slopers near the bolt may yield easier moves. Overall a great route that I will definitely be bringing friends back to. Thanks guys! Sep 22, 2020
tenesmus
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Greg, did you and Bryce work out the moves 10' to the left? I'm thinking that is gear protected .9 climbing. Had hopes he'd brush and suss?

You mentioned Bumble Bee as a great area for 9-ish gear routes. I think this is about the same as Sin Nombre but I could be wrong. Sep 23, 2020
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Pm'd Clay. I didn't suss out to the left. Ha! Sin Nombre worked me.

If you're a 5.8/9 trad leader don't hesitate to get on this route. The two steep face crux's are on bolts. Sep 24, 2020
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Pretty cool! The section with lots of rotten rock seems to be safe enough to grab. Only 2-3 gear placements needed. Nice flow and a good steep ride for the grade. May 30, 2023
Tyler Phillips
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] The best warm up on the crag IMO Jul 18, 2023