Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Tyler Dziedzina, Ellie Moffat
Page Views: 235 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tyler Dziedzina on Sep 15, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Triple cracks converge into a nice but currently dirty dihedral.

This route can be done at least two ways that I know of. Both ways have the same start, which is a right-angling finger crack.

1) The obvious way is to go up into the chimney. At the wide pod, you can either take this way, or stem across and climb the other crack. Either way, you end up going through a tight squeeze. Once out of the squeeze, continue up the nice but dirty hand crack dihedral to the anchors.

2) If the squeeze scares you, from the finger crack, make a step across and over onto the other side of the leaning block. This way is more strenuous (maybe 5.10?) but saves you from going through the squeeze. After negotiating the overhang, continue up easier ground to a ledge, and from here finish on the same hand crack dihedral.

This one will be much better when the top half cleans up. As it currently is, it is still a fun and unique route, especially if you take the first variation.

Location

This ascends the first crack left of "That B*tch Carole Baskin". Simply walk through the chimney or walk around the big boulder, and look up.

Protection

Cams 0.5 to #4, you can take some bigger cams if you really want, and a 2 bolt anchor.

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