Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Shannon Stegg & Jim Corbett
Page Views: 121 total · 29/month
Shared By: Dylan Valvo on Sep 14, 2020
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2021 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details

Description

I found this route very challenging the entire way. It has only seen a handful of ascents so the rock can be exfoliating in the upper pitches.
Pitch 1: Climb up the groove and gingerly move over the loose flakes and block. Protection is possible. Angle right to a fixed pin. When I reached this it didn’t seem so solid so I had my partner toss me a rock and I set it in a little better. Move up to the bulge and clip the bolt, take a deep breath, and crank the really cool and really tricky crux moves. Continue up angling back left to belay at bolts in the corner. 5.11+
Pitch 2: The crux is over! But the climbing remains difficult. The next pitch is hard to read and has some major spice to it. Climb left through through the massive arch and out of sight from the belay gaining a short arete feature. Negotiate the thin face angling back right careful not to step on rotten feet passing very little gear and some bolts ending at a two bolt belay. This pitch would be difficult and scarier without halves as I feel the drag could get really bad and there is some very sharp stuff up there. 5.10+
Pitch 3. Climb straight up the face for a long pitch to the tree line using majority of your ropes. You will pass a couple bolts and better protection than the previous pitch but there is still another difficult sequence to be had midway up the pitch. 5.11

Location

This route is located underneath the left hand side of The Court House Arch. There is a somewhat “obvious” groove system where above you can see some large loose blocks in an overlap.

Protection

Small nuts, 00-3, tricams, half ropes

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