Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 64.27407, -146.68157
FA: Logan Fusso chanchito 17, Nathanael Hardy, Rhane Pheifer, Megan Bennett
Page Views: 853 total · 12/month
Shared By: Logan Fuzzo on Sep 12, 2020
Admins: L Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

There's 3 reasons for the name of this route. 

The hike in from Birch Lake follows a straight line through the muskeg. I found many of the more marshy sections to be quite difficult to walk through. Some of the tussocks in the marsh I was using to cross will hold your weight (wiggly do's); some just throw you into the boggy mosquito infested water (wobbly don'ts).

The better method of approaching this cliff, IMO, is via the Tanana river. The wiggly do's are the fun little rapids. The wobbly don'ts can launch your canoe to the less preferred side; unless you had hoped to get a swim in after your climbing session, this is not a suggested method of travel. 

When we first TR-ed, half of the holds were wobbly don'ts. These have cleaned up for the FA, however there are a few wiggly do's that will likely fall off with time. Also, the second bolt turned wobbly don't after I added locktite; best to clip the right of the two bolts. 

Location Suggest change

Shorter, steeper wall that faces the river. Just right of a chossy chimney system. see pics

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts; two anchor chains. Options for #1-3 cam placement below the first bolt. I would bring a single #2 and runner for making the first clip.

Photos

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