Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m)|
|FA:||Unknown. Re-cleaned Sept 2020|
|Page Views:||238 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Seth Morgan on Sep 8, 2020|
|Admins:||Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle|
This is the crack that coincides with the start of The Great Controversy. The initial starting position for the 2 routes is the same.
Start in under the alcove as for The Great Controversy but follow the overhanging hand crack that widens gradually to #5 and #6 BD size through a short horizontal roof section. Once the horizontal section is surmounted, easier climbing leads to the top.
This will be the first route you encounter coming down the staircase approach to the lower ledge area. It is the farthest route to the right on lower ledge area wall.
Hand size gear protects this climb well with mandatory 5"-6" gear to keep you off the ground at the horizontal section. The hardest parts of the climb would be close to the ground(!) in the event of a fall so bring an attentive belay.
There are currently no top anchors (Sept 2020) set for this route but you can rig a top anchor off the neighboring climbs if they are unoccupied. It would require longer than standard anchor material to do so. 5"-6" gear anchor also possible. The walk-off and walk-on to top of the crag is just at the top of the staircase.