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> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
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> Eldorado Peak
> Dorado Needle
Direct Southwest Buttress
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Dorado Needle
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Direct Southwest Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northwest Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow |
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Southwest Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 48.53755, -121.13436 |
| FA: | Mike Preiss & Mark Bunker, September 2006 |
| Page Views: | 1,063 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Preiss on Sep 7, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
This 2 pitch direct start of the classic 1985 route is there for some who want a little harder day. After the approach gully for the standard sw buttress route just go strait up instead of going around to the right. We scrambled some 4th/low 5th rock for a little (Depending on the snow level) until 3 vertical cracks appear up and slightly left. climb the rightmost crack 5.8ish until forces you right via a small pillar with good pro(small cams) a few strenuous 5.10 moves mantle onto a large bench. pitch two continues strait up an awkward 5.8+ couple moves(was slightly wet when we did it) to some very fun blocky mid 5th rock to eventually join the 1985 route at the large white slabby rock.
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