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Dr. Opus Goes Power Lunging

5.11b, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
FA: Chuck Buzzard
Oregon > Portland & The… > Madrone Wall > (4) Main Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Edge your way up the mostly smooth face to a high first bolt. A few feet higher a committing move left to the steep arete leads to sporty climbing on good holds up the spine to a sloping ledge. Reach up and plug some thin gear before firing the reachy and powerful crux.

Location

Between Rising Deperation and Spectrum

Protection

4 bolts, then gear to 1.5", including microcams or nuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dr. Opus Goes Power Lunging - the second bolt is slightly left of the actual climbing line, but still accessible
[Hide Photo] Dr. Opus Goes Power Lunging - the second bolt is slightly left of the actual climbing line, but still accessible

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I thought the bolting on this thing, and the movement through the overhang, made it unpleasant. The crux is completely out of character with the rest of the climb. You can also step left and finish via the Rising Desperation hand crack. Sep 8, 2020
ChristopherH
Cashmere, WA
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] I didn't find the bolting to detract from the climbing that much. I will say that stick-clipping the first is probably preferable as the horizontal crack below has questionable rock quality. As for the gear-protected crux at the top, sure it's harder than the moves below, but a full rest stance beforehand makes the stout finish fairly approachable. The final sequence is athletic and fun! Sep 8, 2020