Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, Aid, 150 ft (45 m)|
|Page Views:||362 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Edek F on Sep 7, 2020|
|Admins:||Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson|
A long, adventurous plumb line up a striking arete in a great location with views of Whiteface Mt., Moss Cliff, and the West Branch of the Ausable River.
Pull up the fixed line to a large cedar tree (assuming it is there), or stick clip from a ledge 10' up 3rd class terrain and "Batman" up. From the first bolt, climb jugs and the cedar (there may be a fixed line from the ground to the base of the cedar, making the start easier). Alternately, start as P1 of Route of Oppressive Power (up 3rd class terrain to a corner with a finger crack, then traverse right to the large cedar, then belay from here). Make your way up to the second bolt using Adirondack cedar tactics - it is possible to sling the cedar for pro but not necessary. Enjoy incredible movement, pulling on square-cut edges on the overhanging face out left and making your way back to squeezing the arete. Continue up the left side of the arete, eventually making a long gaston reach to a jug (harder if you're short), and pull through the small roof to a good rest with two undercling jugs. Cross over to the right side of the arete to an even better rest. Staying on the right side of the arete, clip from a stance below a small roof, then either climb the bolt ladder (A0) or climb straight up through the roof on the right face (an open project) to a slabby ledge. Enjoy rewarding and exposed 5.9 climbing to the anchor.
***Tie knots in the end of your rope! It is recommended to belay from the top (to enjoy the views and for rope safety) and rappel down. A 70m rappel to the climber's right side of the arete using the chains just *barely* makes it to the ground (but you end up in a shrub at the height of the clearing). A 70m rope will certainly reach the ledge where you stick clip the first bolt and scramble 10' of third class terrain. An 80m rope will likely take care of any rope-related complications.
Named for the comically beefy 1/2" stainless steel bolts equipping the entire route, which look like little fire hydrants.
This route dries out incredibly quickly too.