Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,102 total · 23/month
Shared By: KPRTX on Sep 3, 2020
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Description Suggest change

A classic alpine route.  Mostly good rock follows the sharp cleaver that pushes up to separate Stairs gulch into the upper left and right drainages.  1200-1500ft of climbing depending on when you rope up.  The last pitch is the crux and poorly protected.  Generally speaking the route is 5.6-5.7 and can mostly be simul climbed.  Tops out just shy of the WURL route.  The quickest way down is to join the WURL, traverse East to join Broads fork and descend bonkers to join Broads fork trail.  You can also descend back into Stairs gulch at the ridge of bonkers.  The Stairs descent is difficult and multiple loose downclimbing sections exist.  Be prepared to rap if neccessary.

Location Suggest change

Follow the normal approach to Futility wall except stay left as soon as you enter the steep upper meadow.  Look for the low point in the cleaver.  Start here and follow the ridge all the way up staying on climbers left of the arete.

Protection Suggest change

Offsets or normal Nuts, Double set of Cams to 1 inch, lots of runners