Type: Sport, TR, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 422 total · 33/month
Shared By: mikescarpulla on Aug 29, 2020
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

This is the first bolted route established on the same band of rock of the main walls, but far to the left.  To the right of the climb, easy scrambling leads up several benches allowing TR access. The terrain steepens to vertical heading left.  The route is right on the transition.

Pitch 1: clip the first bolt to secure the belay above the loose slope. Head straight up past 2 bolts on 5.5-5.6 terrain. The crux is surmounting the overhanging shelf, which is 5.7-5.8 depending on height. The crux could be bypassed at 5.6 or easier by heading right, possibly skipping the crux bolt if needed. 5.6 scrambling past one more bolt leads to the anchor. The route got its name from the two first bolts attempted at this station in the face of an oncoming lightning storm, which did not install successfully (chopping them is planned).  First pitch was started by Mike with help from Aaron, Sam, and Paisley.  

Pitch 2: This pitch is short to avoid rope drag and was completed in Aug 2020 by Mike & Logan.  Stem up the hollow above the anchor and angle right and up onto a traversing wrap around the corner past 3 bolts to the anchor.  Just above the start, a Claudius Simond piton was found, indicating prior ascents.  Ironically, the first bolt installed here began spinning when we tried to change out the anchor hardware (chopping planned), requiring the current anchor to be established.  This cemented the route's name. 

Location

Start to the left (north end) of the ice rink facing the cliff.  Start uphill just behind the stored hockey goals and head up the loose hill angling left towards the biggest pine tree. Go up the small outcrop, finding the disintegrating green hardware store rope, and follow it to the first bolt.

Protection

Pitch 1 = 5 bolts to a double rap anchor. Pitch 2 = 3 bolts to a double rap anchor.

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