Champions Club
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Matt MacPhee and Todd Foster August 2020 |
Page Views: | 563 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Matt Macphee on Aug 27, 2020 |
Admins: | Will Bland, Greg Hughes |
Description
P1 5.10d 25m: Warm up through three bolts on a gently overhanging flake with good holds, then use violence, speed and momentum to dominate the cryptic crux sequence. Take a quick rest when you clear the overhang before you tackle the vertical flake right under your nose. Be careful to not get lured too far left of the bolts through this two-time crux - you'll be rewarded with a home run jug to clip off of if you stay on route. Top out to rings on a party ledge.
Firm handshakes to James, Kelly, Greg, and Curtis for helping with beta and not sending the route before me.
P2 5.10b 30m: You thought you were at the tippy top of the mountain, but you're really only halfway up. Work your way through a series of bulges, flakes, dishes, corners and a variety of other features. There are two distinct cruxes but the rest is fairly sustained as well. The top rewards you with a comfortable belay ledge and a set of rings, along with a fantastic view of the arena. -
Here are some early reviews for Champions Club:
'One of the most unique climbs I've ever done. A real technical and mental test piece for the grade.' - G.H.
'Even while seconding pitch two on top rope, I almost soiled myself with vomit. I'll never climb this pitch again.The first pitch was cool, though.' - T. F.
*This route was first climbed with just 11 bolts. Since the fa more bolts have been added to improve protection.
Location
This route starts right in front of the Observatory, which is the aptly-named ledge feature that juts out into the valley. Look for three bolts trending left up a large flake feature before going straight up through the overhanging section.
You can rap from the top in two raps with a 60m rope.
0 Comments