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I Scream

5.11+, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Logan Peterson 8/23/20
New Mexico > Jemez Area > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon > Ice Cream Parlor > Entrance Pinnacle Sector

Description

Wild and physical with plenty of options for solid gear; too bad it's so short. A little trickery will go a long way.

Start in the dirty slot shared with You Scream and We All Scream. Take a hard left under the hanging block. Turn the corner and take the varied hand crack to a roof split by a finger crack*. Be gentle with the hollow flake. Pull the roof and proceed to the anchors.

*This finger crack continues all the way to Earth's surface, so it will periodically re-fill with soil and leaves. Try to avoid getting dirt in your eyes as you fiddle pro into it. 

Location

The left-most of the three lines that split from the dirty slot. These are the very first routes you'll encounter at ICP.

Protection

The crack is quite variable, so your ideal gear will probably differ from mine. For a first attempt, I'd recommend singles from 0.4 to #3 with doubles from 0.75 to #2. A #5 protects the moves into the dirty slot, but may also keep your belayer from seeing your efforts above; if you're solid at 5.11, you'll probably skip this piece. Definitely bring some slings, and consider rope drag when placing gear.

2 bolt anchor. Toproping would be a miserable experience, but if you must, please use your own draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I Scream equipped for cleaning/rope solo during the days of full quarantine.
[Hide Photo] I Scream equipped for cleaning/rope solo during the days of full quarantine.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Fun and unusual. It will definitely get better with traffic (some dirt in a few of the jams, but nothing heinous), so I hope folks will get on it. Nov 9, 2022