Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
I Scream
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Entrance Pinnacle Sector
|
Diabeetus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Good Humor Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
I Scream T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Michoacan Bar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Soft-Serve Cone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
We All Scream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
You Scream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Logan Peterson 8/23/20 |
| Page Views: | 540 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Logan Peterson on Aug 24, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Wild and physical with plenty of options for solid gear; too bad it's so short. A little trickery will go a long way.
Start in the dirty slot shared with You Scream and We All Scream. Take a hard left under the hanging block. Turn the corner and take the varied hand crack to a roof split by a finger crack*. Be gentle with the hollow flake. Pull the roof and proceed to the anchors.
*This finger crack continues all the way to Earth's surface, so it will periodically re-fill with soil and leaves. Try to avoid getting dirt in your eyes as you fiddle pro into it.
Location
The left-most of the three lines that split from the dirty slot. These are the very first routes you'll encounter at ICP.
Protection
The crack is quite variable, so your ideal gear will probably differ from mine. For a first attempt, I'd recommend singles from 0.4 to #3 with doubles from 0.75 to #2. A #5 protects the moves into the dirty slot, but may also keep your belayer from seeing your efforts above; if you're solid at 5.11, you'll probably skip this piece. Definitely bring some slings, and consider rope drag when placing gear.
2 bolt anchor. Toproping would be a miserable experience, but if you must, please use your own draws.
1 Comment