Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Kevin Boyko
Page Views: 261 total · 15/month
Shared By: Kevin Boyko on Aug 23, 2020
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A tough campus start gets you into the thin hands followed by a big move where the crack welds shut. More painful jams and glassy feet lead out left through the roof to a full rest in the corner. The last crux requires balance, crimping, and arete pinching to get around the second corner to the easy headwall.

Don't bother packing the rack for The Tunnel.

The end of this obvious climb was bolted by John Hymer "over 20 years ago." He couldn't complete the climb as he had broken both his hands and jamming was too painful, I guess no one else was interested. John highly recommended bolting the whole thing but I was keen on trying to keep it mixed since it's a jam-able crack. I cleaned it on aid and climbed it to the anchors on gear. There was no way to stop cams from literally popping out of the roof section under just body weight. The rock has a brittle surface and is quite slick. I'd be hanging on the rope on a textbook placement then the cam would just rip and I'd go flying. After taking a few head shots and some near ground rippers, I accepted John was totally right and I Euro-bolted the crack. -KB

Location

Obvious crack right of the detached block

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor

Photos

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