PRINT: Rock Climb Clementine, Yosemite National Park

Clementine

5.12b, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,

Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Brandon Adams, Rebecca Church, Sydney Taylor
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Glen Aulin Area > Grand Canyon of… > Grand Canyon of… > Wildcat Point

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Description

Approach: 2 to 2.5 hours. Fisherman's trail towards Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne. Wildcat Point is the beautiful dome about a mile downstream of Glen Aulin.

Pitch 1: 5.12a, 130'
Single rack to #1, doubles to .5
Chickenheads past 2 bolts to cruxy step across/down. Hard lieback move to crack and flake features, then a traverse to the anchor.
Anchor: 1 bolt and gear.

Pitch 2: 5.12b, 90'
Single rack to #1
Step up and right to thin crack. Sustained jams and liebacking to a bolt protected crack switch. Rest, then pull the roof and cruise to the anchor. Awesome.
Anchor: One bolt and gear

Pitch 3: 5.10b, 130'
Full rack
Traverse up and right on flakes to glory crack system.
Anchor: One bolt and #1 or #2 cam

Pitch 4: 5.9, 70'
Single rack
Up short 5.7 flare to middle of three flake systems. Beautiful hand sized crack.
Anchor: 2 bolts

Atop pitch 4 is Terrapin Station, a huge ledge.

From here there are two options:
1) Traverse the ledge to the right and scramble down to a pin and bolt anchor. Make 3 single 70m rope rappels to the ground.
2) Continue to the top by way of Wildcat Buttress 5.9 A4 (not recommended).

Location

Located on North Side of Grand Canyon, Sub Area, Wildcat Point. Look for two parallel crack systems running up face. Clementine approaches them and climbs the right one.

Protection

Doubles small to #1
Single #2
Nuts
70m rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting up pitch one on FA

Terrapin Station is huge

Overlay, route in green, rappel route in blue

Topo

Rebecca toproping 1st pitch

Looking down from 3rd anchor

Looking down from 4th anchor

Halfway up Pitch 2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J. Albers
Colorado

Seems like a cool route. Quick question, one of your topos shows a whole bunch of pins on the second pitch. Is that pin protected or is there good gear? Aug 22, 2020

Brian Prince
reno

Super good, thanks Brandon and company! 2nd pitch is definitely awesome. The crack is sick, but pulling the roof and ensuing vision quest is what dreams are made of!

It might be tempting to skip the last two pitches because they're easier and rap off single bolt anchors, but they're pretty heroic and a ton of fun. The only downside is having to carry shoes or walk back along the base a ways in climbing shoes after doing the established rap route. Which is kind of hilarious btw, the bolt + beak anchor was a first for me. Aug 31, 2020

Abel Jones
Bishop, CA

5.12b R

I would call this R and hard for shorties. P1 is quite committing above the bolts and had me running above a single c3 facing ground fall for a pretty hard section. No pins in p2 so a healthy 15’ or so run above a micro nut in 12b terrain left me exhilarated. You probably want to be super solid at this grade or have a tough time aiding. Found a pin marked yellow and blue on the ground under the 12b seam. Could this have freeze thawed out? Either way, 4 star climbing on the first two and looked amazing above. I enjoyed the run outs as is but it’s a little heady. Sep 26, 2021

Brandon Adams

5.12b PG13

I took the swing more than a few times on pitch one figuring out the crux. More of a fun swing than R I think... but I'm kinda dumb. I think I got a good blue totem or something before the section following the pitch one crux?

Surprised the pins came out of pitch 2. Should be enough pro in there without, so long as you don't block your jams (and certainly if you're as strong as Abel). If someone wanted to add a bolt or something I really don't mind.

Abel, psyched you got out there and enjoyed it. Did you rap from 2 off the one bolt? Pitches 3 and 4 are so giggly! Sep 28, 2021