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Jaws

V4, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
Maine > a. Western Moun… > Jockey Cap > 1. Jockey Cap B… > Peary Boulder

Description

This line follows the left edge of the triangular roof on the right end of the boulder, traversing right to the roof's point (where the downhill face meets the uphill face). The holds are comfortable and the moves enjoyable and consistent, which more than make up for the fact that it's a lowball traverse.

Location

Follow the trail along the southern (downhill) face of the boulder to the right end, where the trail heads uphill and a 3-4' high roof forms. Here, a very large, left trending flake meets the roof's left end (a v1, Laid Back, climbs that flake).  The route begins at a jug under the roof at this flake and heads out the roof before traversing right and heading up the arete to top out.

Protection

Pads

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jaws heads right from the jug under the roof on the left side of the photo
[Hide Photo] Jaws heads right from the jug under the roof on the left side of the photo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Toby Jacobs
Freeport, ME
 
[Hide Comment] Fun variation of this that someone should finish and post - start in the whale's mouth jugs at the end of Jaws and top out without the arete. There's a slopy crimp for the right and then a small crimp for left and then a throw to the top. Gave it a couple tries in passing with almost success, but topout area might need to be cleaned to hold the throw. Aug 7, 2022