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Just Right

V4, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Maine > a. Western Moun… > Jockey Cap > 1. Jockey Cap B… > Peary Boulder

Description

A fun eliminate. Start sitting just right of the easy flake route on the southern face on two slopey but good holds. Move up to nasty sloper pockets at 5-6' before hitting a pair of positive edges that lead to better holds above. 

A v1 variation uses the flake and skips the sloper moves, instead moving from the flake to the edges.

Location

About the center of the southern (downhill) face of the boulder, about 1 foot right of the obvious well chalked flake. 

Protection

Pad or two.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The line starts on the lowest visible chalk in the center.
[Hide Photo] The line starts on the lowest visible chalk in the center.