Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gary Olsen, 1980s?
Page Views: 309 total · 14/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 12, 2020
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

Boulder past three bolts to easier ground, then embark up the attractive, twin diagonalling cracks above to a fine crux guarding the exit moves to chain anchors.  Resist the urge to succumb to the easier climbing on Siren’s Cheek.  Very well protected.  

Some trivia: The Façade is described in the Ruckmans’ 1998 guide as starting in a crack left of the start described here, but is rated “5.?” with no stars and no FA information.  In Calderone’s 2017 guide, it’s hard to tell from the topo-photo how the route starts, but it’s rated as 5.9R and the FA is shown as Stu and Gary in 1986.  Although this info seems a bit conflicting (and the 5.9 rating appears way off), given Stu’s and Gary’s prolifically, there is little doubt they were the first to do the twin cracks.  This spring, several hours were spent cleaning the route and the bolts were added right of the original start to make the line more continuous at the grade.  The bolted section is admittedly contrived, and historical purists may want to start in the crack, but for those who like to seek out more difficulty the bolted start is worthwhile IMO.

Location

Starts maybe 10 feet left of Baby Face.

Protection

Wires and a single set of cams to 2 inches.

Photos

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