Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Friar's Frontress

5.9, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Deer Mountain > Deer Ridge Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Season raptor closures: March 1 - July 31, NOW LIFTED DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a two pitch variation that climbs directly to the start of Nun Buttress and then goes left, adding some high quality climbing at a slightly more difficult grade.

I have only climbed pitch 1, as it is commonly used as a direct start to Nun Buttress. Pitch 2 is much less popular, as the climber will bypass the excellent first pitch of Nun Buttress.

Location

Follow any of the approach options for Deer Ridge Buttress to the left side of the cliff, just west of the Praying Nun (the obvious pinnacle below the cliff). Begin at a pillar with a hand crack on the right side, and lieback flake on the left. There is a large pine tree at the left start.

Pitch 1 gains the top of the pillar from either side and follows finger cracks and flakes, trending up, then right. The climbing is sustained in the 5.8-5.9 range. Belay on loose, low angle terrain at the base of Nun Buttress

Pitch 2 follows the left-facing dihedral to the left of Nun Buttress on the prow. Climb out the roof capping the dihedral (.10a), and follow a finger crack (.10c) to its end. Traverse right back into Nun Buttress.

Protection

Assuming you'll be continuing with Nun Buttress, add a few extra small cams to the rack, BD #0.2-0.4.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The approximate line of Friar's Frontress pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] The approximate line of Friar's Frontress pitch 1.
Pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1.
The location of Friar's Frontress.
[Hide Photo] The location of Friar's Frontress.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Hayden Webster
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Fun climbing and great gear. Type 1 kinda pitch. A fairly insecure (but protected) 5.8 move leads to a well-protected lieback (crux) This pitch felt much closer to 5.8 than 5.9, especially for the area. Jun 30, 2022
plantmandan
Rice Lake, WI
 
[Hide Comment] P1 is a terrific start for Nun Buttress. The rock quality is terrific. Small cams come in handy for the middle and upper portions of the pitch. Aug 2, 2022
Brennan Metzler
Dillon, CO
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] FF is an enjoyable introduction to the wall and seemed friendly as far as RMNP 5.9s go. It protected well and had a more facey-sporty feel, compared to the three crack dominant pitches of Nun's above. Highly recommended if climbing Deer Ridge. Aug 12, 2025