All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Deer Mountain > Deer Ridge Buttress

Friar's Frontress

Name: Friar's Frontress
Rating: 2.7

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Deer Ridge Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Center Left Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Crystal Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Crystal Ship T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Deer in the Headlights T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Forrest Solo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Friar's Frontress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nun Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Praying Nun T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Type:	Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
GPS:	40.38915, -105.58748
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	839 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Mike Soucy on Aug 10, 2020
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Season raptor closures: March 1 - July 31, NOW LIFTED Details

This crag has been closed March 1 - July 31 for raptor nesting in previous years, although not for the last few years.

For 2018, the closure appears to have been lifted per the NPS website, and the backcountry office (970-586-1242) has confirmed this for 2018.

For more info, see the NPS website:

nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is a two pitch variation that climbs directly to the start of Nun Buttress and then goes left, adding some high quality climbing at a slightly more difficult grade.

I have only climbed pitch 1, as it is commonly used as a direct start to Nun Buttress. Pitch 2 is much less popular, as the climber will bypass the excellent first pitch of Nun Buttress.

Location

Follow any of the approach options for Deer Ridge Buttress to the left side of the cliff, just west of the Praying Nun (the obvious pinnacle below the cliff). Begin at a pillar with a hand crack on the right side, and lieback flake on the left. There is a large pine tree at the left start.

Pitch 1 gains the top of the pillar from either side and follows finger cracks and flakes, trending up, then right. The climbing is sustained in the 5.8-5.9 range. Belay on loose, low angle terrain at the base of Nun Buttress.

Pitch 2 follows the left-facing dihedral to the left of Nun Buttress on the prow. Climb out the roof capping the dihedral (.10a), and follow a finger crack (.10c) to its end. Traverse right back into Nun Buttress.