PRINT: Rock Climb Peñalara or Classica oeste, Madrid

Peñalara or Classica oeste

5.11a A0, Trad, Aid, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,

Avg: 4 from 6 votes
FA: April 1965 Cesar Pérez de Tutela, Alfonso González, M.A Herrero.
International > Europe > Spain > Madrid > La Pedriza > El Pajaro

Access Issue: Griffon Vulture Nests Details

Certain routes can be closed during nesting season. Look for a sign at the bottom of the route. Typically these restrictions apply from January to August. Local climbers have worked with rangers to only close routes with nests instread of closing down the entire park. If rangers see that climbers don't respect these closures they may heavily restrict climbing entirely.

Description

Pitch 1 : Bolted 5.9 slab quite run out

Pitch 2 : easy right traverse 5.9

Pitch 3 : 5.11a or 10a/A0 Traverse along the crack to join the chimney pitch, some bolt.

Pitch 4 : Up the Chimney wide go through the window in the roof, on gear.

Pitch 5 : Slab to the summit

Enjoy the views and the vultures.

Rap down 20 m on the NE face from the top than down climb the North Gully.

Amazing route, some said it's the best granite climb of Spain.

Location

On El Pajaror west face, we can see the obvious corner of the third pitch from the valley.

Protection

Double rack to number 3, bring one four. The fourth pitch is quite wide, you could need a 5

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 4 : El Pajarero classica oeste

First Pitch

Reborn on the third pitch

The Offwidth

First Pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Guillermo Valverde
Madrid

Great route! Single rack works fine, aliens great on first pitch, crux pitch is fully bolted, number 5 cam helps in the offwidth of the third pitch Apr 27, 2022