Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Chris H
Page Views: 395 total · 33/month
Shared By: Chris H on Aug 3, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

The obvious splitter crack with a big roof a third of the way up. The route was initially climbed by Chad Suchoski who aided the roof section. Alex Voboril and Chris Herle later cleaned large amounts of loose shale and greenery from the lower section and added a few bolts to make it a well protected lead. Chris was the first to free the route in it's entirety. 

Pitch 1: Clip a bolt from the tree, and then pull a few moves to get established before clipping another bolt that protects a strenuous move through the section of smooth rock above (falling here is safe, but would get you well acquainted with the tree). Follow the lieback crack to the roof, traverse left, clip a bolt in the roof (extend to prevent rope drag) and then fight your way through the roof on good hand jams. Continue to the anchor. 11b.

Pitch 2: Follow the sustained crack, using a variety of crack techniques. Finish on a nice ledge with bolts/rap rings. 10d.

Descent: Need a 70m to rappel the route. In order to reach the the pitch 1 anchor you must kick off of the rock on the way down or you'll be left hanging in space (not good). Another option would be to walk to the left side of the crag and rappel another route. 

Location

Obvious crack to the right of the large alcove on the right side of the crag. 

Protection

Singles BD .3-.5, doubles .75-3. Extra in the hand sizes might be useful for the long second pitch.

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