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CCR

5.10a/b PG13, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 6 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > D: Wilmington R… > Cloudspin Cliff

Description

A route that has everything.  Boulder moves, hand and finger crack, slab, Gunks roof, or easy escapes.  The route is at the right end of the cliff.  A pleasant belay area off the trail passed a jumbled set of boulders on your left.  It is located by finding the third most prominent roof on the right.  Find the left trail and find a blunt arete to a ledge under a giant roof.  Up the boulder problem (or go easily up the right facing face) to a hand crack.  Then go left (run out) or right easy to a ledge and find two right facing corners.  The right most corner is for Demolition (5.6) the left is for CCR.  Head up to the roof and either take on the right facing corner or escape right.  Convene to a dike and the fixed anchors. 

Protection

Trad. Tricky gear at the top.. it's all there. Down low on the left slab is easy climbing but run out.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From the left - Next Wave; CCR; Demolition Direct
[Hide Photo] From the left - Next Wave; CCR; Demolition Direct

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cal Seeley
New Hampshire
  5.9- PG13
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Totally being “that person” right now, and I apologize, but 5.10 is a stretch. Definitely agree with the pro rating. May 13, 2022
Ross Manny
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] No need to apologize for giving your opinion. That's how consensus is reached! May 18, 2022
Peter Bayers
New Milford, CT
[Hide Comment] Really interesting, cerebral climbing once in the business. Perhaps split difference on ratings offered above--I'd lean 10-. Oct 9, 2022