Type: | Sport, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 391 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Vivek Subramanian on Aug 1, 2020 |
Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
Description
Kristall is a great 5 pitch climb starting in the main bowl of Gross Furkahorn (i.e., in the Kristall Sector). It is hard to miss, since it is just to the left of the easily visible orange rectangular plate mounted on the wall.
Pitch 1 goes up the corner to the left of the plate. It is often wet due to melting snow. Therefore, there is an alternate start just to the left of the plate up the face, which then traverses left into the corner. Alternatively, if the corner is very wet, you can also climb Jedem Tierchen Sein, which starts to the right of the plate and goes right and then back left again, and joins Kristall at the anchor for pitch 1. All three options are 5c+ or so.
Pitch 2 is an easy 5c cruise up granite slab. It heads right and then splits into a left and right fork. For Kristal, you should take the right fork (the left fork is Jedem Tierchen Sein).
Pitch 3 is a 4a pitch to reposition under the beautiful crack than runs straight up the face. Looking from the bottom of pitch 3, the pitch goes slightly to the right. There is only one intermediate bolt.
Pitch 4 is the crux of the climb, but is well-protected. Go straight up the nearly vertical crack on the face of the wall. The crux is down low, since the rock is quite slippery and the crack is flary. At the top of the crack, go left to reach the anchor. 6a.
Pitch 5 is a short 5c pitch to get to the top... it goes up and over a left-facing corner.
Descent is by rappel... pitches 5, 4, and 3 can be rappeled in one 2x60m rope length. Pitch 2 and pitch 1 require 2 more rappels.
Kristall is often part of the "Kombination" which involves going left on the bowl above Kristal to the left corner of the bowl and then climbing Trochefueter (2 pitch 5c). This go left on the next terrace to climb Dusentrieb (3 pitch 6a). Then go left on the terrace to climb Jolly Jumper (5 pitch 5c+) to get to the summit ridge... walk left on the summit ridge on ESE Grat to claim the actual summit if wanted.
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