5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||TR, 45 ft (14 m)|
|Page Views:||574 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||TripBrannen on Jul 30, 2020 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
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Really fun route. Best to start off a boat or paddle board or something. A traverse in from the right may be possible. Would likely add a grade or two. Follow an obvious right facing rail feature up and left to a pretty good rest before the crux. A couple moves right and up from there takes you through the crux sequence which finishes with a big reach to a rail feature that runs up and to the right and puts you directly above the start. From here the climbing eases significantly. Follow the rail to a flake/block, get on top of that thing and finish up however you wish. I went up and right because it was the cleanest but all options are pretty easy from here. Be careful with the block, it's big and didn't seem loose but the very left side sounded a little hollow and I didn't love the look of it. I forgot to bring anything to pry with when I cleaned the route but I would have tried to take it off if I had. I pulled as hard as I could, stomped, kicked, and jumped on it (while cleaning on top rope) and it didn't move. The route never goes under it and it's a DWS so there's no belayer but probably worth treading lightly as you mantel the rail. You'll need to step across the block. I might just be paranoid but FYI.
Route starts maybe 30ft to the right of the left arete on a flat edge. Goes up and left a bit but ultimately cuts right to traverse pretty far right of the start. Just follow the features, it's fairly obvious.