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The Astraphobia Treatment, AKA Southern Belle
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Southern Cross
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Astraphobia Treatment, AKA Southern Belle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fear No Evil T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fear of Fun T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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FOMO T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Taphophobia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wet My Pants, AKA Southern Fried T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | CField & BConry, 2015 |
| Page Views: | 559 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | dave custer on Jul 29, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures.
Details
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
We think this climb is better than Holdless Horror or Bulldozier, Tuolumne Meadows climbs of similar difficulty and length. That said, the climbing is of a different character—more alpine and the feldspar crystal knobs of Dozier Dome are replaced by high quality, orange-patinated, fine-grained granitic features.
P1 Climb the crack/chimney system to a (the 2nd) ledge system that offers branching left. 170’.
P2 & P3. 300 more feet to the summit. For rope drag purposes, probably best to continue up the right angling crack system that is now hand-crack sized; continue as the crack heads up and right across the south face and into a short trough behind a triangular pinnacle; belay at/near the far end of the trough; 100’. Then up the south face/southeast arete to the summit; 200’
From the top, follow the ridge (exposed 2nd class) 400’ until it is possible to descend sand/talus/slabs back to the base, either to the east or the west.
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