Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: CField & BConry, 2015
Page Views: 559 total · 17/month
Shared By: dave custer on Jul 29, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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We think this climb is better than Holdless Horror or Bulldozier, Tuolumne Meadows climbs of similar difficulty and length. That said, the climbing is of a different character—more alpine and the feldspar crystal knobs of Dozier Dome are replaced by high quality, orange-patinated, fine-grained granitic features.


P1 Climb the crack/chimney system to a (the 2nd) ledge system that offers branching left. 170’.

P2 & P3. 300 more feet to the summit. For rope drag purposes, probably best to continue up the right angling crack system that is now hand-crack sized; continue as the crack heads up and right across the south face and into a short trough behind a triangular pinnacle; belay at/near the far end of the trough; 100’. Then up the south face/southeast arete to the summit; 200’


From the top, follow the ridge (exposed 2nd class) 400’ until it is possible to descend sand/talus/slabs back to the base, either to the east or the west.


At the right side of the south face, start at the base of the wide crack system that slants up and right, ending at a triangular pinnacle.


gear to #6 camalot; extras in the 1-3” range if you like extras