All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Quebec > 02. Saguenay-La… > Chicoutimi > Les Monts et Merveilles

Attache ta tuque

Name: Attache ta tuque
Rating: 4.0

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Les Monts et Merveilles

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Attache ta tuque T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Charles Munger et Alain couture, printemps 2003
Page Views:	288 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Maxime Castilloux on Jul 27, 2020
Admins:	Luc-514, Thierry Berland Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (65$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.

Description

P1 5.11c ~15m Nice vertical finger crack with very good protection.
Easy start, stable to place good cams (~#0.3 to 0.4) just before the first crux in the middle of the route where the feet out of the small crack are lacking.
The rest of the route offers difficult passages, but separated by very good rests.
Anchor on two glue-ins.

Belle fissure à doigts verticale avec de très bonnes protections.
Départ facile, stable pour placer de bonnes cams (~#0.3 à 0.4) juste avant le premier crux au milieu de la voie où les pieds hors de la petite craque viennent à manquer.
Le restant de la voie offre des passages difficiles, mais séparés par de très bons repos.
Relais sur 2 scellements.

P2 5.9 ~15m Slab protected by 2 bolts (at the beginning and in the middle) to a small section of easy finger crack to finish.
Anchor on 2 glue-ins.

Slab protégé par 2 plaquettes (au départ et au milieu) jusqu'à une petite section de finger crack facile pour finir.
Relais sur 2 scellement.

Possible to install a top-ropel from the top to make the 2 lengths in 1.
The 2nd pitch is not very interesting compared to the first one.

Possibilité d'installer une moulinette par le haut pour faire les 2 longueures en 1.
Le 2e pitch n'est pas très intéressant comparé au premier.