Type: Sport, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 265 total · 8/month
Shared By: Vivek Subramanian on Jul 26, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route

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This is a gem of a climb!  Good quality limestone (though there are some loose rocks here and there).   Every pitch is different, and the climb is fun, well-protected, and interesting.  The views are spectacular.

Pitch 1: Wonderful fist jam crack straight up.  Amazing quality crack for this part of Switzerland.  Well-bolted, so gear isn't necessary (a pity... a crack of this quality doesn't need bolts).  At the top of the crack, ignore the first anchor and follow the bolts to your right to a tree anchor to reduce rope drag on pitch 2.  6a... not particularly difficult if you have good crack climbing skills.

Pitch 2: A Burly face climb that follows a thin crack to a roof.   Very well protected in the crux sections.  The roof looks intimidating, but is really well-protected and offers great hands and feet.  Definitely the crux pitch.  6a+

After pitch 2, you can reduce drag by heading right and setting up a belay at the tree (lots of slings and tat).  It is also possible to belay directly off the pitch 2 anchors, but this isn't recommended due to the drag.

Pitch 3: A transition pitch that traverses right... scamble up the rocky ridge and then go around the pillar to the corner of the face to your right.  Protection is sparse but the terrain is easy.  5a at most.

Pitch 4: Go up the face, living near the corner.   At the top, head right along the ridge to the anchor.   There are multiple anchors visible... the best anchor is the rightmost anchor below the offwidth / chimney to your right.   5c

Pitch 5:  Go up the chimney, which heads right.   At some point, you'll have to move outside the chimney and traverse along the ridge.   The anchor is at the next face.  6a. (Variation: Head even further right and go up the thin crack to get back to the chimney 6a+)

Pitch 6: A beautiful climb up the face, living near the corner.   Big moves, but well-protected.  When you reach the top, head right to the base of the pillar to find the anchor. 6a+

Pitch 7: A spacy pitch... go around and up the pillar.  Step across to the corner and follow the bolts... these are easy to miss, so keep watch for them. 5c.  (Variation: Climb the pillar and then lower-off the metal rap station just enough to step over to the right and finish the climb)


The climb is clearly marked and is in the gully as described in the area page.   To descend, follow the path than heads right past the one pink dot and down along several red dots.  There are 3 fixed ropes along the way. When you get down, the train splits a few times... to get back to the base of the climb, take the right split.  When you reach the main hiking trail, go right (towards Les Agites) to get back to the base of the climb or to Les Agites) or go left to go down to Luan.




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