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Instant Ocean
5.11-,
Trad, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 6
votes
FA: Zach Harrison, Chris Kalman 2020
Arizona
> Northern Arizona
> Flagstaff Area
> Upper Pumphouse…
> Ultimates
> Ultimates East
Description
Stretch up and clip a bolt. Stem and layback into the changing corner finger crack--the crux of the pitch. Pull through on a good fingerlock, then more of the same but in the opposite direction all the way up the corner past a bolt to a chim slot and the anchor. It's nice to back clean the first bolt, or have the belayer unclip it as to see the climber in the upper corner.
Location
About 15 minutes down-canyon from Ultimate Dihedral is a scenic section of narrows flanked on each side by very steep overhanging walls. This route is on the east side wall smack dab in the middle. It climbs the left of two obvious gray left-facing corners.
Protection
Doubles from blue metolius to .75, single #1. Could use triples in finger sizes if it's at your limit. Offset cams would work well in a number of places. Three quickdraws.
![Instant Ocean Blue Man Group. Photo: Nelson Klein (https://www.nelsonklein.com)"]()
[Hide Photo] Instant Ocean Blue Man Group. Photo: Nelson Klein (https://www.nelsonklein.com)"
![Pump Drunk in yellow; Instant Ocean in red, Sucker Pump in purple.]()
[Hide Photo] Pump Drunk in yellow; Instant Ocean in red, Sucker Pump in purple.
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