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36 Volts to Anywhere

5.10d, Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 17 votes
FA: p1 A.Wood, G. Shank, D.Taylor p2-3, A. Wood, D. Taylor, M. Rynkiewicz, G. Webster
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lower Lump Area > Beetle Bailey Slab
Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

The labor of love.

It took a handful of hard driven, rain soaked, climbers a year to wrestle this route out of the moss. Perhaps said best by one of our most prolific; “Index takes a village" (and a lot of beer)

P1 Starts right of Hedge trimmer, just behind the tree, clipping bolts up to a thin right trending crack with small pods. Place a cam, move left then right to stand on the crack, then up more bolts. Zag right then Zig left making use of edges and matches with stemming feet through a triangular formation of rails (cruxish). Aim for Mussy hooks if just top roping.  10c/d

IF doing the next pitch forget the Mussys and blast off right up the dog legging crack to an anchor in an alcove, one may also simply begin the second pitch mid blast and link p1-2. 

P2 from the alcove belay, traverse left to a bolt and mantle with conviction. Follow grooves and a weakness through bolts. Do NOT go out the wild ramp left, that is a different and also excellent climb. Go straight up through stemming and a finger jam crux corner. 10d/11a

P3 Le Roof.... Not much to describe, its awesome and harder yet easier than it looks. Mostly bolts but bring a .75. One may shout at parties on Ride the Lightning 10c/d 

Descent: p3 Has Mussy Hooks. From P2 parties can rappel to the ground with a 70 meter.

Location

Just behind the large tree right of Flying Salamander and the Tombstone. Two bolts leading up fun slabbish or juggish climbing depending on the path chosen.

Protection / Top Roping.

Single rack to 0.75 mostly bolts.

p1 and p2 are best led as one 34 meter pitch. (Makes for a classic Index TR) ....Recommended...

P1 can be top roped from obvious mussy hooks with no traverse at only 10c

Everything Hertz is a fine alternative starting pitch and is easily linked into p2 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Courtney resting before the crux on 36 Volts P.2.
[Hide Photo] Courtney resting before the crux on 36 Volts P.2.
Start of p3
[Hide Photo] Start of p3
G shank p2
[Hide Photo] G shank p2
Sonya Kepler checking out the second roof on p3
[Hide Photo] Sonya Kepler checking out the second roof on p3

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
[Hide Comment] p1 is a thoroughly enjoyable line with an engaging, physical crux. The bolts are right where you want them for the business up high, though you may opt to stick clip the second bolt if this grade is at your limit. You can also place a green alien in the diagonal rail ( between bolts 4 and 5, if I remember correctly.)and a .5 or .75 at the exit of the triangular roof feature. Jul 25, 2020
Gabe Shank
Index, WA
 
[Hide Comment] I found a spot for a small yellow Metolius up top on the ramp leading to the right anchors. The route is a blast. So many different styles of climbing on it. Jul 25, 2020
Stig gles
Seattle
[Hide Comment] "Harder yet easier" is the best description of Index climbing I've ever heard. Jul 27, 2020
CourtneyB
Seattle, WA
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] Super fun climb with well placed bolts and a mix of balancey moves and roof pulling. 3rd pitch was my fave. Placed a piece of gear up and right from the roof but up and left also seemed like it would work for gear. Don't forget to check out the views at the top of p3. Thanks Gabe and Doug for another great route. Sep 3, 2020
Gabe Shank
Index, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Don’t forget Adam, Jeff, and the other Gabe. Got a crazy good crew working on awesome new routes at the lump. Sep 4, 2020
Douglas Taylor
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] STOP giving "Stars" unless you've climbed all 3 pitches. Pitch 1 is fun, but only a fraction of the climb. You really need to do all 3 pitches to know how good it is.

IMO, the crux of the entire 3 pitches is the corner crux on pitch 2. I've seen it done about 5 or 6 different ways, and none of them were easy. Hip scum, stemming, froggy step, or my personal favorite, High Step and Scream, or any combination that you prefer will get you through.

One could also start the multi-pitch via Everything Hertz for the most direct and ever-so-slightly easier start, however that climb tends to stay wet for an extra month or so at the beginning of the season. Oct 9, 2020
Adam Wood
seattle
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Doug is right. Climb all 3 or really two pitches. The intermediate anchor was an attempt to maintain a 5.10 experience. If you like granite keep questing for the roof. The final pitch is mostly moderate and highly unusual featured stone.

youtu.be/TPCarNtmros Nov 20, 2020
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
[Hide Comment] Nice video.
Though I was hoping to see the High Step & Scream, I was not disappointed.

It looks like you could have added a 4th pitch. Any plans to do so?

Thanks Adam for the answer below and video of p2. Really fun looking stuff there. Nice job on the route. Nov 20, 2020