Type: Sport, 480 ft (145 m), 6 pitches
GPS: 48.0075, -112.71274
FA: Randall Green and Jim Semmelroth 2001
Page Views: 1,129 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brian Thompson on Jul 20, 2020
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Moderate through the first three pitches. Off the ground feels tricky as you get used to the chert. Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined with minimal drag (makes for faster ascent). The next couple pitches require gear for protection (sport climbers beware).

Pitch 1:  (5.9) Start left of the birdhead feature on the steep face. Work you way up the "bulletproof" face to belay ledge. (65 feet, 6 bolts)

Pitch 2: (5.9+) From ledge pull over bulge onto steep slab and pull through several more gritty sections to a broken corner. Move up corner to v-shaped ledge. (95ft, 13 bolts). (If combining, mind the bolt number!)

Pitch 3: (5.9) Layback up a very cool and steep corner for a few bolts and then step left on another off vertical, chert fortified face. (85ft, bolts)

Pitch 4: (5.11a) Slap left and work left to a gut churning bulge mostly on jugs. Haul through a thin roof move to easier short section (5.9) that takes gear. (95ft, medium gear, 9 bolts)

Pitch 5: (5.8+) Jam straight up a steep hand to finger-sized crack past one bolt and end on top of a small tower. (65ft, 1 bolt, medium gear)

Pitch 6: (5.10) Move up and slightly left past bolts through a small bulge. Make it as hard as you want here then move left after bulge to a ledge at the top of a large chimney. (75ft, 8 bolts and medium gear).

Location Suggest change

This route starts at the back of the bird head on the face.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts for first three pitches, a smattering of medium gear the next three pitches.

Photos

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