PRINT: Climb Arrows at Ezel, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Arrows at Ezel

V8-9, Boulder, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Ian Glas
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Boulders - Litt… > Gate Boulders > Gate Boulder

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Classic Ian Glas traverse (though he may have started or finished slightly differently). Start on the left variation of Surprise Ending. Avoid the big ledge for your feet at the start. At the positive edge at about 12 feet, cut right to the sharp incut jug. Then drop down to the big jug flakes. Head right through the sloping cracks and underclings. Then follow the right leaning crack above the rock landing to a rest jug. Continue right, under the tree (careful not to dab). From the sidepull flake, do a powerful move to a perfect slimper. Punch right to the juggy ledge feature. Follow it all the way to the end, with a nice ergonomic top-out on a right hand pinch. Video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvY43bMWxa4.

I am proposing 5.13 or V8/9 Traverse--MB (who grades stouter than me!) has suggested in the 5.12d/5.13a range. I welcome other opinions on the grade.

Location

Southeast face of Gate Boulder.

Protection

Numerous pads are helpful to make it feel safe.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Yellow line depicts the path of the climb, from left to right. Screenshot of what I found to be the redpoint crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

cliff calhoun

classic! May 18, 2024