Type: Sport, TR, 35 ft (11 m)
FA: T. Lauren and E. Shildroth, 1996 (according to '06 Perkins guidebook)
Page Views: 103 total · 16/month
Shared By: D F on Jul 13, 2020
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

This route weaves through the black-streaked roofs left of Boo Boo Bear. Four bolts protect some interesting boulder problems that are capped with with a couple of insecure slab moves to the anchors. The style reminds me of the routes in Rifle's Winchester Cave.

The climbing from bolt 2 to the top is fun and engaging (12b-ish), but I was not quite able to solve the crux at the first bolt, even with a left kneepad. Two kneepads might be helpful. It also appears that there could be some other grovelly, contorted sequence. Either way, this crux seems pretty heinous. I gave up after getting several rope burns while using left kneebar beta, which was nearly working—the bolt protecting these moves is exactly where you'd want it, but as you climb around the bolt, it's hard to keep the rope out of the way, and the rope ends up sliding across your torso when your feet slip out. It was easy enough to clip up to the second bolt and send from there, which was worthwhile. It would warrant two stars if not for the unpleasant boulder/A0 off the ground.

The welded round-shut on one of the anchor bolts is bent, perhaps smashed by rockfall. It would be possible to access these anchors by lowering down from Boo Boo Bear.

Location

Climb out the black-streaked roofs left of Boo Boo Bear, starting from the low point of a pit behind a big boulder. It's one of the shadier routes at the cliff, which makes it more enticing.

Protection

Four bolts + anchors.

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