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Gamblin' in the Winds
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in Mount Hooker
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All Grown ups are Pirates T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Betwixt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cache Pirates T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gaff, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Gamblin' in the Winds T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Hook, Line, and Sinker (aka the Free Boissonneault-Larson) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Jaded Lady T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Optimist (The Nolan Smythe Memorial Route), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Original Sin T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sendero Luminoso Free T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Shady Lady T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft (545 m), 14 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | P1-P6: Whit Magro & Hayden Kennedy, August 2015. P7-P14: Whit Magro, Jesse Huey, & Maury Birdwell, August 2019 |
| Page Views: | 2,454 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | MauryB on Jul 4, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Originally begun in 2015 by Whit Magro and the late, great Hayden Kennedy. The two launched up the wall looking to connect a series of features, encountering every style of climbing and taking bold runouts. Out of time and energy, after 6 pitches the pair traversed Der Minor a few ropelengths to finish up a previously established route, intending to return for the direct finish up the headwall above. After Hayden's tragic death in 2017, Whit, Jesse Huey, and Maury Birdwell vowed to return and complete the route in their friend's legacy. Established entirely ground up, on lead, and like nearly every route on this mountain it has potential to be a modern hardman classic. Brilliant face climbing, steep boulder problems, jamming, desperate thin cracks...this thing has it all!
Up to P6 (the hole) rappelling with double ropes would require some swinging and mountain swagger, but be reasonable. Beyond P6 it would be increasingly difficult to retreat given the overhung and traversing nature of the next few pitches. Of course, anything is possible with a can do attitude...but the best way out is up!
Up to P6 (the hole) rappelling with double ropes would require some swinging and mountain swagger, but be reasonable. Beyond P6 it would be increasingly difficult to retreat given the overhung and traversing nature of the next few pitches. Of course, anything is possible with a can do attitude...but the best way out is up!
Location
Start about 300m (?) to the left of the nose of Mount Hooker, near the highest point of the talus meeting the wall. Easiest to locate by spotting the quartz dike feature of P5 and/or the Jade Face of P2, then follow it down to the double train tracks slashing up and right that form the first pitch.
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