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Fat Bastard
5.11d,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 123
votes
FA: Louie Anderson 2017
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Old Rd Crags
> Powers Wall
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Fat Bastard starts off a small boulder to the left of the big flake with Groovy Baby and Swinger. Easy climbing off big pockets on the slab leads into the overhang. Several holds have been filled in, making what used to be a fun 5.11d into a very stretchy and gymnastic climb with big dead points and dynos. Can be very difficult for short people. It felt roughly 12b to me.
Location
Starts off a small boulder to the left of the big flake with Groovy Baby and Swinger.
Protection
8 quickdraws
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