Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches
FA: 2019
Page Views: 1,613 total · 92/month
Shared By: Marlaina Rhymer on Jun 30, 2020
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Access Issue: Logging Roads - Restricted Access Details

Description

Tachypsychia, 7 pitches, 5.6, 250m
(a condition that distorts perception of time)
This may be the Eldred’s first true moderate: a 7-pitch 5.6 actually made for the 5.6 climber. That’s not to say you don’t need to be competent and self-sufficient, but if easy well-protected trad is your jam, then this climb is for you. It’s also one of the only routes where you’ll find a shaded snack spot en route in the heat of the afternoon. Enjoy! 

FAs: Marlaina Rhymer (MR), Braeden Ennis (BE), Alex Ryan Tucker (ART). Pitches 1-5 2018; Pitches 6-7 2019.

Pitch 1: 5.4 (FA MR)
Start in a shallow left-facing corner (running water after rain) to a small ledge. Continue up a straight-in broken crack to a tree belay on a cushy ledge. 
Pitch 2: 5.6 (FA BE)
Step out right onto the slab past 3 bolts to another shallow left facing corner. Continue up the corner as it turns into a straight-in broken crack. Gear belay. 
*can link pitches 2 and 3 with careful rope drag management and a 70m rope
Pitch 3: 5.4 (FA BE)
Continue up the straight-in broken crack to a 2 bolt belay stance on the left. 
Pitch 4: 5.6 (FA ART)
Continue up crack to an overlap. Pull up over the overlap between a right facing corner and a bushy tree, and continue up the corner to a 2 bolt belay near a tree. 
Pitch 5: 5.6 (FA BE)
Continue up the right facing corner until it ends, then step right onto the slab towards a boulder and treed ledge with a 2 bolt belay. 
Pitch 6: 5.6 “Roy Time 1” (FA MR)
Step onto the slab above the belay, clip a bolt and continue to the crack out right. Follow this crack until another bolt leads you right onto the slab again, and onto another crack. Follow this crack to a small stance with a 2 bolt belay. 
*can link pitches 6 and 7 with careful rope drag management and a 70m rope
Pitch 7: 5.6 “Roy Time 2” (FA MR)
Continue up the crack until another bolt leads you right onto the slab again, and onto a third crack and shallow left-facing corner. Follow this corner to another treed ledge and 2 bolt belay. 
Descent: Rap the route as climbed with 2 x 60m ropes. Skip the gear belay and go direct from the top of Pitch 3 to the top of Pitch 1. As with most routes on the Psyche slab, you’ll be thankful for a pair of sandals on the rappel.

Location

Approach: take the trail left as for Day Pass / SRI. Before reaching SRI, look for blue flagging and a faint trail on the left. Follow the blue flagging through the forest, past a cool x-marks-the-spot boulder (you’ll know it when you see it), through a slide path, more forest, another slide path, and finally reaching the base at a large cedar. If you get lost in the forest, go back to the last piece of blue flagging and you should be able to see the next flag. If you get lost in the slide path, try to follow the path of least resistance. Long pants are recommended for bushwacking through the slide paths, at least until the approach sees some more traffic. Approach time: about 20 mins from the CAD Memorial Camp parking.

Protection

Suggested rack: doubles to 2”, singles or doubles of 3” and 4”, 2 x 60m ropes for rappel. A 70m rope will allow you to link some pitches.

Photos