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Undying Spite
5.10d,
Sport, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 8
votes
FA: Ryan Lawson, June 1999
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (w) The Marsupials
> Mud Pile
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Begin by establishing yourself on large (not deep) pockets and work your way up through the first few bolts on small edges and knobs with plenty of solid feet. You'll soon find yourself at the crux of the route: a bouldery sequence over a bulge using a diagonal finger crack. Clip the bolt from a solid, but slightly painful, finger lock and power through the next couple of moves. You'll be rewarded with a nice rest, followed by some enjoyable climbing around the arete to the first set of anchors.
You can lower here here or continue to the top of the Mud Pile with 5 additional bolts of pleasant 5.8 slab.
Location
Sits far to the right of "Kid-Packed Mini-Van From Hell" and just to the left of "Lusty Lady." The first bolt of the route is just to the right of a dark, rightward-pointing, somewhat licheny flake.
Protection
8 glue-ins to the first set of anchors; 14 to the second set. No drop-ins, so bring extra draws. Rap or lower through the hardware, but don't TR through any fixed gear.