Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Tyler Casey
Page Views: 788 total · 34/month
Shared By: Tyler KC on Jun 26, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

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This is the cop out version of  "Holiday In Cambodia". From the glory jug up high, peep your eyes to the right, and spot the lone expansion bolt. Traverse your way right, and enter the wizard's crux! This is perhaps the most cryptic route on the wall. Gain the finger lock by using the improbable slopers and "holds" you find.... Once you link into the crack, rest up before launching the final boulder problem at the chains.
I utilized a 0.5 to protect the crux after the bolt (depending on how spicy you like things, it may be a wise idea to bring more gear).

*This felt hard to grade this one, and I'm sure it'll never get repeated as sport climbers generally shy away from placing cams (cough cough...somebody do this thing). If somebody does in fact do this line, let me know, and I'll buy you a beer.

Location

Start per "Holiday in Cambodia", and traverse right into "Rolling Thunder" after the 8th bolt.

Protection

8 bolts, gear, and anchors with rap rings.

Photos