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> Pinnacles NP
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> Lower Juniper C…
> Crumbling Castle
Regular Route
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Mort Hempel and Steve Roper 1961 |
| Page Views: | 455 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Jun 17, 2020 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
Another Pinnacles classic from BITD. Climb up the east face near its southern edge past one bolt and traverse up and left to a small ridge and another bolt. Now ascend two overhangs protecting the summit. Traverse around to the left to find the easiest way to top out.
There are no bolts for these last move so spend some time finding the easiest way to surmount the overhangs. Supposedly cams have been placed to protect these moves, but good luck finding placements.
Rappel 75' from bolts and chains.
Dave Hammack, George Larimore, Bob Smith and Alice Ann Dayton during the first ascent of this pinnacle in 1952 climbed the upper portion of the route. Hempel and Roper added the direct start.
There are no bolts for these last move so spend some time finding the easiest way to surmount the overhangs. Supposedly cams have been placed to protect these moves, but good luck finding placements.
Rappel 75' from bolts and chains.
Dave Hammack, George Larimore, Bob Smith and Alice Ann Dayton during the first ascent of this pinnacle in 1952 climbed the upper portion of the route. Hempel and Roper added the direct start.
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