PRINT: Climb Oral Surgery, Smugglers' Notch

Oral Surgery

V8, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),

Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
FA: Brad Fauteux?
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Smugglers' Notch > Smugglers' Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Bone Doctor

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Description

A fun party trick. This is a dyno found in the middle of the overhang.

Stand start with a pair of high holds about 8-10 inches apart from each other.

The left hand is a slopey edge, whereas the right hand is a quartz pocket-like edge. Pull off the ground with difficulty and toss up to a good hold on the lip. Hold the wild swing and climb up and left on the sloping lip of the boulder to the apex before rocking over the top.

Location

Found on the steep overhanging Bonedoctor, this problem is almost smack in the middle of the block.

Protection

3 or 4 pads. It is easy to loose a handhold when hucking for the lip, and the swing could spit you down to the start of "Nemisis" if the core gives out.