Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: John Scott, Sam Skrocke, May 2020
Page Views: 874 total · 37/month
Shared By: S Skrocke on Jun 15, 2020
Admins: Lurker -, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

This sublime route climbs the south face of the main dome. It gets all day sun. The quality of rock is superb and there are many challenging pitches up some incredible features. There are some shenanigans on the 3rd pitch that will help keep everything safe. I recommend reading the route description below. We also added a few more bolts to pitches 3 and 4 after the first ascent. We felt that the flaring/blind placements on the 3rd pitch and the "Hollowness" of the forth pitch made this a good decision. I do not know if this would allow for a smaller rack. I suspect it does  

P1 (5.10a, 45m): Start up the giant slab leaning against the wall. Climb a short corner to a small roof (start of the South Face route), but after the roof immediately leave the corner and climb past good holds and a bolt to your right. The climbing will steepen while you climb into the low angle chimney that will take you to the top of the pillar.


P2 (5.12c 25m): If you slot a stopper to protect the move up to the bolt, back clean it, you may need it above. Clip the bolt and enjoy the security of the short hand crack above. Climb into the thin crack and continue up past good gear to the roof. A complete set of stoppers are needed here and doubles of the Black Diamond #4 and #5 stopper are very useful and highly recommended. Exit left when you get to the roof. When your feet get to the level of the roof move back right past two bolts and belay at the "Trident" from a single bolt.

P3 (5.12b 40m): Getting to the flake. The route climbs down and right from the anchor. The lead should move right from the belay and clip a bolt. This bolt will protect the lead through the down climb and up through the beginning of the flake. The second will then have to unclip this first bolt but will immediately face a dreadful swing if they blow the down climb (11b). To manage this the second can use a double length sling (a single shoulder length sling will be impossible to remove) on the horn that is at your feet while standing at the belay. Once securely past the down climb, the second can flick the sling off. Now get on the flake. This feature will continue for two long pitches the beginning being the toughest. Climb the strenuous flake past five more bolts and a tenuous crux. After the last bolt go up the enjoyable finger crack to an anchor. 

P4- Keep following the flake out right. Some sections can be "Quite hollow".  5.12a 40m

P5- Traverse right off the belay past two bolts before trending more upward. More bolts and a couple pieces of gear will get you to the next anchor. 5.10c 40m

P6- It's not over yet. Get ready to fight for the finish. Climb off the ledge into some steep hands. Then pull into a wild and steep finger crack in a corner. Shortly above this the climbing eases up to the top of the south face. 5.12a 30m

Variation: Poseidon's Link-Up

At the anchor above the 3rd pitch you can climb straight above into a crack to flake to small roof/flake feature. Climb onto the heavily featured face past two bolts. This will eventually lead you to the fourth pitch of "The South Face Route". Break it up into two pitches or one long rope stretcher to the base of the 5th pitch of "La Roca Mas Fina" from here you can finish up on "La Roca" 5.12a  one more pitch or "The South Face" 5.11d two more pitches. Extra gear needed for finishing on either of these routes. The link-up is 5.10b 65m.

Decent: Walk left around the giant boulder you come to at the top of the route. This will take you to the rappel station for "La Roca Mas Fina" Rap 3x with two 70 meter ropes or 6x with one 80 meter rope. Or, continue climbing 5th class to the summit and rappel into the notch behind the main dome 4x with one 60 meter rope.

Location

Follow the obvious trail heading southwest from the end of the road and parking areas. After entering the drainage (west) now follow the far less obvious trail up the drainage for a short while until the drainage splits. From here locate the cairns. They will be on the toe of the ridge that forms here between the to drainages. Work you way up to the base of the wall. About 1 hour 2100'.
The notch between Joeys tower (the pyramid shaped formation) and the main wall can be reached by one of two ways. The longer but easier, easier meaning no 4th class but a slog none the less, route is to travel below (East) of Joey's tower and approach the notch from the Southwest. Or follow the base of the main wall south. About 30' from where the gully chokes out look for a short scramble on the left to a ramp that will take you to the top of the choke.

From the top of the notch locate the large slab of granite leaning against wall. "Trident" starts on this slab.
2300' Approach time: 1h30m

Protection

Gear: .1 - #3
Nuts: 1 set
Doubles: .4 - .75, Black Diamond Stopper #4 and #5

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