All Locations > New York > Moreau Area > Fresh Wall, Spier Fal…

Vagionia

Name: Vagionia
Rating: 2.5

5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British

Routes in The Fresh Wall, Spier Falls Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ben V's Escape Route TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Ben Venitos to Moreau Me TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Descent Route, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Dirty Pirate Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lisa's Layback TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Not too Shlabby S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
	Open Project (The Hard One) TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Vagionia S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

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Type:	Sport, TR, 28 ft (8 m)
GPS:	43.23155, -73.75601
FA:	Jim Pavoldi, June 12, 2020
Page Views:	692 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Jim Pavoldi on Jun 14, 2020 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Be extremely courteous and compliant if anyone inquires, or demands action. Details

Exploration in these areas and their surroundings may quickly enter into State Park territory, power lines, and possibly on power company land. If you enter please respect the long history of safe, responsible and respectful use.

Description

For route route-name flaggers searching for offence in names based on their containing of the letters V-A-G, please note this is actually named after "Vagionia Bay" on the Island of Poros in Greece (where I met my wife)...

Deep, sharp, or in-cut buckets can be really tricky to get to. Crab-pinch the bottleneck in a horizontal then transition to undercling for the first big reach.

Fingernails help balance the final move where good feet need to be on tippie-toes to reach the final bucket (5'11") or friction and a terrible edge drive toward a matched crimp and dyno for shorter climbers.

It goes without the crack on the right (Dirty Pirate Corner) and ends as a top-out about 4 feet left of the big tree above Dirty Pirate Corner. Make use of everything on the left and it will come together. I am afraid I may have originally sandbagged it at 5.5 as I didn't want the humiliation of giving it a harder grade than is true based on my challenge with it; I am moving it to 5.7 after a few laps today (and a consensus of 3 since) and totally open to change. Please feel free to ping me with feedback and grade suggestions if you feel strongly.

Update. Moving to 5.8 Sep 2020 after trusted feedback.