Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 3 pitches
FA: Pamela Pack
Page Views: 309 total · 13/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 14, 2020
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Weird, wild, and super unique. The route is undoubtedly very sandy and flaky, but the shape of the features are so unique that it really doesn't matter. The second pitch is so out of this world weird, you gotta do it.

P1. 5.8

Scramble up a ramp and pull one move to a belay. This pitch was fine as a solo, just be attentive of the fluffy rock.

P2. 5.11?

Freakin cool pitch. Very WTF. Pull into a 25' horizontal half-pipe tunnel traverse with a crack in the bottom. Are you climbing, or are you spelunking? Is it 5.7 or 5.12? who knows... Once you emerge, continue up a flared chimney with some micros or ball-nuts for pro in a calcite crack. Gear to 4"

P3. 5.11-

Face climb up some crumbling sandstone past a few bolts to reach the chimney. Climb gently! I used a Kong Panic to help clip the first bolt off the belay. Continue up the solid, yet runnout chimney to a natural thread and some gear as the chimney pinches you out into standard offwidth.

Location

Cross under the road in the culvert to prevent some bushwacking. Continue up the sandy wash to the route obvious at the back of the canyon.

Protection

Gear .1-9"

Photos

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